Caldas da Rainha: the quirky heart of Portugal’s Silver Coast

Just 10 minutes from our Casa Piccadilly lies a city that is often overshadowed by its famous medieval neighbour, Óbidos. But Caldas da Rainha has its own rhythm – colourful and wonderfully weird. Think thermal history, daily markets, bold ceramics and the occasional peacock strolling through town. Welcome to Caldas da Rainha, one of the most authentic places to explore on Portugal’s Silver Coast, loved by expats.

A royal (and slightly steamy) beginning of Caldas da Rainha

The story starts in the 15th century, when Queen Leonor founded the town around its thermal springs. These hot waters were said to heal everything from joint pain to royal fatigue, and the hospital she established is considered to be Europe’s oldest thermal hospital. You can still feel that spa heritage today – though nowadays, most visitors come for art, markets, and the quirky vibe.

Mercado da Praça da Fruta – the beating heart

Every morning, the town wakes up to the Praça da Fruta, Portugal’s only open-air fruit market that is open daily. Imagine mountains of tomatoes, crates of figs and locals haggling while gossip floats through the air. It’s busy and colourful, and the best place to pick up fresh produce for a picnic back at Casa Piccadilly. Insider tip: arrive early and follow your nose – the peaches alone are worth it!

Ceramics, Bordallo Pinheiro & the art of not taking life too seriously

If Caldas had a patron saint, it would be Rafael Bordallo Pinheiro – the 19th-century artist whose cheeky ceramics still shape the city’s identity. His frogs, cabbages, and oversized sardines pop up everywhere.

And then there are the infamous… well, let’s just say you might spot a few ceramic penises in shop windows. Yes, you read that right. It is said that the local potters came up with the idea of making large ceramic penises when King Dom Luís told them to create something more interesting. Caldas has a sense of humour and isn't afraid to show it.

Parks, peacocks and a slower pace

Need a break from the market chaos? Head to the leafy 19th-century Parque Dom Carlos I, complete with lakes, sculptures and art pavilions. Keep your eyes open – a flamboyant peacock likes to wander around as if he owns the place! (Honestly, he probably does.) It’s a perfect spot to stroll, read a book, or people-watch over a coffee.

Across from its beautiful lake, you will notice huge, imposing buildings (Pavilhões)– once part of an ambitious 1892 thermal hospital project that was never completed. After years of varied use, they have been abandoned since 2005 and suffered fire damage in 2023.

 Sweet treats & foodie finds

Caldas isn’t polished fine dining – it’s more local. Start with a pastel de feijão, the city’s famous bean pastry – don't question it, just try it! Pair it with a strong espresso at one of the pastelarias. For dinner, look for a no-frills tasca and order whatever’s fresh – grilled fish here is mostly a win.

Some recommendations:

• Razzle Dazzle – beer and pizza with a twist (in the best way).

• Dona Branca – the local go-to for classic wood-fired pizzas done right.

• Local Café – hip and perfect for people-watching with a strong espresso in hand.

• Origem – speciality coffee and healthy bites in a cool, modern setting.

• Balcão 5: A cosy spot serving honest Portuguese flavours with a twist.

• Maria dos Cacos – creative, Mediterranean-inspired snacks designed to be enjoyed together at the table.

 

Why we love Caldas da Rainha

Caldas isn’t picture-perfect, and that’s exactly the charm. It’s alive, normal, and a little eccentric at the same time – from daily markets to phallic ceramics, from royal spas to strutting peacocks. For us at Casa Piccadilly, it’s the perfect example of normal Portuguese life: just 10 minutes away, yet with a completely different vibe to Óbidos or the coast.

So, when you stay with us, don't just head straight to the beach. Make room in your itinerary for at least a short stop in Caldas da Rainha – trust us, it's worth it!